The last 24 hours in India--by Suz

1/19/08

They say India is a litmus test for travelers.

Boy, is that ever true.

And, this definitely one of those "BM, BK" trips.... "Before Marriage, Before Kids"

I would say that Ryan and I are avid travelers. We've backpacked through Cambodia, Malaysia, VN, Mexico, Peru, and China. We primarily stay at youth hostels, but also at budget hotels and guesthouses. I carry a roll of toilet paper everywhere, use the squat toilets without squeaming. (ok. maybe just a little bit). We've gotten by with a 5-gallon bucket of water instead of a hot shower.

All that, and I will say that India is not an easy country to travel in. At times, we've been surprised at the lack of hustle bustle and the lack of hawkers. And other times, we let them spoil too much of our visit to a site. Many times, it is a grind--especially going through the endless aisles and having to fend off "excuse me, very nice pashmina/scarf" or the so-called "gauntlet" (Ryan's term) of "guide..guide?".

My favorite refrain so far has been: "You know famous actress Goldie Hawn?" I don't know how that's supposed to get the hawkers anywhere since Goldie is long gone. :) Not even a "do you know Angelina Jolie or Madonna or Richard Gere". Sheesh! Oh, other refrains include one in Agra: "you see my face, you see my shirt? you remember. I'm Ricky. You remember me."

I've taken to teaching some of the youngest sales people--just kids really-- to high-five and low-five to  "make them children again" instead of professional hawkers. If they are young children and incredibly persistant, I will then ask them about themselves (to get their minds off of what they're pushing.) Their name, their age, the number of brothers and sisters...anything to break that otherwise nasty tourist/hawker exchange. The other strategy I devised with Ryan.... 1-2-3 break! He goes left, I go right and the hawker is left totally perplexed not knowing who to chase. The last thing I've loved to do is speed walk. After a bit, the hawkers just give up, too tired to keep up.

I must say though, I hate doing any of those things; I hate turning a blind eye or even just totally disregarding that beggar child practically sitting on my lap at the train station. But, that's what we've been force to do--completely ignore them and avoid making eye contact. There are just so many poor children and beggers EVERYWHERE. I've NEVER felt so overwhelmed.

I feel horrible doing it. I feel horrible not even giving them a single cookie from the package I bought at the train station. But once you offer one child a single cookie or cracker, and the others see it, they swarm. Dozens of children. What a terrible way to describe the human phenomenom...but it's the truth.

I feel guilty--very guilty. But I'm not guilty.

The hawkers--young and old-- are merciless. The harrassment can be endless. Overwhelming.
Again, it is the most mentally and physically challenging country I've ever traveled traveled through. Fellow backpackers I met in China years ago told me that traveling through China (even if you don't speak Chinese) "was a cakewalk" in comparison to traveling through India. In many ways, I agree.

The best way we've been able to cope is to come back to a sane environment to decompress after a long excursion. We are so incredibly grateful to Todd and Lori for allowing us to stay with them at the American Embassy School.

Honestly, I thought we were "wimping out" for doing this and not staying in another hostel. But now, I'm incredibly thankful. Considering how Ryan ran a fever of 102.2 last night and had some serious congestion before that and tummy troubles starting off, I think this "home base" has done wonders for him (and for us. Long trips abroad have a way of testing your relationship like no other!) 

While I'd be just as happy continuing with a 5 gallon bucket and sleeping in my street clothes and socks with something on my pillow to protect me from the not-so-clean linens, I AM SO HAPPY to have this opportunity to stay with Todd and Lori! It has really kept us sane and helped us from "burning out" on or India experience.

The trip has been fantastic. Love the people. Love the food. Love the sights.

Varanasi. Taj Mahal. Those were our the two things we came to see in India. To add to that experience, we visited extensively with an Indian slum (aka jugi) thanks to our host's connections at the US embassy. Some unusual memories: Ryan driving the moto-rickshaw and me holding the cobras. Amazing hosts in Delhi and a great visit with our former Sacramento Bee reporter friend who is now at Mint (the Indian Wall Street Journal Partner).

One thing I wish I could change... I wish I could eat MORE Indian food. 

I've been way-careful for obvious reasons. It's been killing me not being able to buy any samosas off the street. It's just that a 5 hour train ride this way and that, a 3 hour plane ride... I haven't wanted  anything to spoil our trip. Delhi Belly has been a lot more intense for many tourists here than Montezuma's Revenge has been everywhere else. All that aside, I know I must have gained 5 pounds already because any time I do get a chance  to eat Indian food, it seems like I'm eating for two. . ;) Well, there is Kathmandu Restaurant on Broadway in Sacramento that's just around the corner. And Indian food in SF........

-Suzanne

Delhi 3: Stomach 1 --by Ryan

1/17/08

Delhi 3 - Stomach 1

So after battling "Delhi Belly" with Imodium, Pepto and Tums, I (Ryan) finally brought out the big guns-- Azithomycin (sp?), an antibiotic I picked up from Kaiser.  After a day and a half, I feel much better and somewhat regular (if you know what I mean).

Monkeys and Cobras:

Today, we are in Jaipur and paid a visit to Galta known as the Monkey Temple because there are simply alot of monkeys (go figure).  As we were hiking to the temple we fed the little critters some peanuts who took them straight from our hand, however one monkey became wise to Suz, and decided to go for her pocket where she kept the bag of peanuts-- simply put (Monkey 1 - Suz 0).

Also, we have run into a lot of snake charmers in India (always thought that was just a stereo-type), who love to play for tourists for a little cash.  Suz decided to take it one step further, instead just watching, the snake charmer wrapped the cobra around her, and she calmly held the snake as it fanned it's wings and stared at her (the snakes have no fangs or poison, and their mouths appear to be threaded shut).

I'm tired of these mutha-f---ing roaches, on this mutha f---ing train!

So on our train ride from Agra and Jaipur we were greeted by a few little friends.  Normally, we buy 2nd Class tickets for the train, but were able to only get 3rd Class seating (there is one more step below).  For the most part, the train ride was just fine, except for all the roaches running around on the floor of the car.  Fortunately only cows are sacred in India, because I smashed at least 10 roaches, our neighbor on the train said, "no problem... only small ones."  Now, they are dead ones.  We also had a mouse running around (just a gray blur) who was too fast to smash.

Hilary or Obama?:

We have ran into quite a few educators and businessmen who are all interested in American politics and fascinated with the race between Hilary and Obama... any chance they get they ask, "Who do you like, Hilary or Obama?"... then quickly tell us why they don't like Bush.

Tonight we head back to Delhi

-Ryan 

Taj Majal--by Ryan

1/14/08

Suz and I, woke up this morning to see the sunrise at the Taj Mahal. Probably 250 people had the same idea... as we all crowded south of the temple grasping our cameras and video as the majestic Taj slowly appeared in the morning light.
 
For those who haven't seen it... the Taj is enormous... bigger and more impressive than we ever thought. Made of all white marble it was built as a tomb for the second wife of Shah Jahan who died after having her 14th child.  If any woman pumps out 14 kids... you definitely deserve a place like the Taj Mahal.....
 
Onto Jaipur late tonight... 
Meanwhile "Delhi Belly" continues to kick my (Ryan's) ass...
 
-Ryan 

Delhi 1: Stomach 0-- by Ryan

1/13/08
So after being careful... really carefull about what I eat or drink, I have lost to "Delhi Belly".  Fortunately for me this is a real minor case, and I'm not sure where I picked it up... but here in India it could have been anywhere.  So right now I am living on Ginger Tea and Nan Bread and Imodium AD and Pepto Bismol.
 
Yesterday, Suz and I were given quite an "eye opener".  Across the street from the U.S. Embassy (where we are staying in Delhi), there is a slum neighborhood (extremely poor).  One of the workers at the Embassy school offered to takes us through the make shift homes and tents to see how people live (close to 300-400 families).  What we saw was amazing.  Despite living in poverty... the entire slum was a full functioning neighborhood, complete with a library, computers, tiny shops, a tailor and recycling center.  The people were friendly and happy... only their living conditions were depressed not thier spirits.  Lori, are host at the embassy school put it the best, "in America we have a fear of poverty"... she is right, and India has really put my own attitudes in "check"
 
Today we arrived in Agra... sight of the Taj Mahal
and will go to the Taj at sunrise...
 
-Ryan

From Varanasi to Delhi-- by Ryan

1/12/08
We have left Varanasi and are now sitting Delhi trying to make sense of everything we had just seen on the Ganges River: Cremations, people bathing in the polluted waters, Saduhs (holy men), funeral procession through the alleys of the Varanasi, cows blocking my path, land mines of cow patties, con-artist trying to rip off tourists, spiritual enlightened folks blessing us, drug dealers offering opium and heroin, the colors and beauty, and poverty and sadness. 

I cannot begin to explain Varanasi only because there are so many layers and layers to this place that I can't even begin to understand myself.  I told Suz, I shot hundreds of photos, went through two batteries on my video camera, and "I feel like I'm not even close to capturing Varanasi".  I don't even think a full week is enough time.  I will try to make sense of Varanasi with only two days of memories.... 

THE RIDE BACK..... 

When you come to India be prepared to bargain and negotiate for everything... and I mean everything.  Taxi's, hotels, snacks, tours, guides.  When Suz and I were leaving Varanasi, we packed up our back packs and hiked up to the main road to grab an auto-rickshaw, and as soon all of the drivers saw us... we were immediately swarmed... "airport airport good price good price only 300 sir you come with me airport good price 250 i get you faster..."  So as I was surrounded by a dozen guys who were tugging at me, trying to negotiate a price (200 rupee), Suz decides to yell out, "150 Rupees!"... immediately the taxi drivers swarmed onto Suz like a wave of old school Stock Market traders.  We eventually got our price of 200 Rupees... but of course ended up tipping our driver another 50 Rupees ($1.00).

Today we visit some markets in Delhi..
then tomorrow to Agra (Taj Mahal)

Holy Cowsh--!! --by Suz

1/12/08

A QUICK OBSERVATION FROM SUZ

Day 3: Varanasi 
I can't tell you how much Ryan and I have been looking forward to visiting Varanasi--the holiest place in Hinduism. They say Varanasi is quintessential India.Sometimes, spirituality seems best described by pictures and not words... 

But, in this case, I'll let Mark Twain's words describe just one part of Varanasi's wonder. It's one of the oldest continually populated cities in the world. 
"Varanasi is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together."

Varanasi has so many faces: the early morning bathers--men and women alike bathing naked in the Varanasi at sunrise and dusk. Yogi's meditating on their perch. Lit candles released to float along the river early and late in the day illuminate the darkness. There are the many children running alongside you trying to get you to visit their guesthouse, buy their bindis and postcards; boatmen trying to get you to come with them for a quick ride. There are countless cows that line the narrow sometimes cramped alleys, the cowshit that is everywhere you walk.

One Indian gentleman said to us, "You are so fortunate to be here. Fate brought you here." And he took off running into the water.

Yes, they are a very spiritual folk, folk who come here and dunk their heads in the so-called river of life and death, the river that 60,000 visit every day, the river that is also festering in fecal form, raw sewage, and ashes of all the cremated. So spiritual, they'll wash their clothes here, wash their face and bodies, and then proceed to brush their teeth.

Don't know how to even describe the intensity, the magnmanity, the significance of the experience. But, I'll make it as simple as this: 

SIGHTS: so many people on the river as early as 6am bathing, cleasing, spirtually renewing themselves; the sadhus with their ash covered forheads donning bright orange or yellow robes, the marigolds adorning the water and the vendors's stands. Just a few feet away, raging fires as hundreds of bodies are cremated, piles and piles of wood reaching up to the sky--wood ready collected from every place, all day for the endless spiritual ritual. 

SOUNDS: so much chanting, singing, gongs, bells.... boatmen shouting out "boat?, boat" (as in get a boatride along the Varanasi), little kids and their opening line: "You know Goldie Hawn--famous American actor?" the monkeys screeching; at times it's the pyres that are burning, the sound of flames raging--cremations well underway even late into the evening; in the evening, it's the sound of the kids laughing and screaming as they  stop hawing their wares and instead pick up their kites.


Video link to young Brahmin priests and puja: http://vimeo.com/10128008


 

SMELLS: the river doesn't actually smell as bad as one would expect, but you do smell a rawness. The air is often thick with incense or in this case fire and smoke....like a forest fire. Sometimes, it's thick enough to make you want hold your breath. The alleys are filled with so much---be it diesel smell, cow crap smell, or the smell of hot oil from the deep fried foods.

Holy Cowsh--!!-- by Ryan

1/11/08--in Varanasi
I say that... because after arriving in Varanasi that's exactly what Suz and I have been scraping off our shoes! (Suz came up with the title).
 
Varanasi is considered one of the most holiest places in India where people bathe and cleanse themselves in the Ganges River... and also come to get cremated when they die.  But while holy, and fascinating, the city is also crowded, chaotic, full of poverty and some might say a little on the unclean side (thus the cow poop on our shoes!)
 
We arrived in Varanasi late Thursday night (our flight was delayed), which is not a good time because the city is full of dark winding alleys, and I must admit it was a tad bit uncomfortable traversing the alleys looking for a place to stay, we settled on a budget hotel 400 Rupees... that's 10 dollars a night (if you have not figured it out yet... Suz is a hardcore traveler who could sleep on the sidewalk with a mat and rock for a pillow if she could bargain it down to under $5 bucks.)
 
The next morning... Suz decided to wake up the entire Ganges River, as we rose at 4:00 in the morning... looking for someone to take us down the river.  Let's put it this way... we were the first tourist on the Ganges, and woke up most of the holy people who were sleeping on the banks (did I mention Suz is hardcore!)
 

The 2 hour boat trip may have been one of the fascinating experiences (since waking up to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat in Cambodia).  For a 7km stretch people come down to the banks of the Ganges and bathe and cleanse themselves in a holy spirtual ritual before sunrise.  The cremations also begin early in the morning (they actually go 24 hours a day)... and we were given a fish eyes view of the experience from the waters with our boatman Ravi... 
 
Afterwards... we made our way back to our 10 buck hotel traversing Cow dung, dog dung, cows, monkeys, moto-scooters.  I wish I had a vat of Anti-Bacterial, maybe Bryan May can lend me his for my next trip! (only the folks at news10 will get that)
 
See ya... 
 
Back to New Delhi tomorrow...
 
Ryan

Air India2-- by Suz

1/10/08

Ryan and I have been fortunate to backpack thru a number of developing countries--Cambodia, Vietnam, Mexico, Peru, etc.  It's been 2 years since our last trip to China. Each time, we're blown away by it all--- the crowds, the chaos on the roads, the noise. It's a wonderful feeling to step back into such a country again.  India so far has not been overwhelming... just  really fascinating. 

Those crazy taxi rides still make us flinch on occassion, but not like the "very first" ride. 

It's great to breath in that diesel smell, hear the endless honking, feel the little moto-taxi/moto-rickshaw stop, and go and feel like you've only traveled a mile in 10 minutes.




Some quick observations: as crowded as India is, public transportation (from buses to taxis) all count on CNG. Every vehicle has the CNG stamp on the side. That's very unlike any other country we've been to. However, like China, there is a massive number of cars. Cars outnumber motorcycles and bicycles. A friend explained to us that the middle class is growing rapidly and there's a boom in car production. For the first time, people are able to afford cars.


On another note, we haven't seen a single cow yet! :) Don't know why we were expecting to see them in Delhi. But, we've been told that the cows have been "pushed" out to improve the image/ or help improve the image of this up-and-coming city. We have also seen elephants walking alongside our car and a snake charmer doing his thing.

I will say there are splashes of color everywhere. The trip is punctuated by color: saffron, fuschia, orange, marigold, turquoise. You can't but help but fixate on any beautiful woman dressed in those colors. The men don't catch my eye here. ;) It's the women! :)  

There is a tremendous gap between the rich and poor. Poverty is everywhere. As in Beijing, Saigon, Mexico City.... you see the luxury cars right beside the man on his bicycle pulling a cart full of something-or-other. The beggars line the street as working professionals in their suits and ties head to work. Right next door to the embassy area is a slum that must be home to 700 families.

It's interesting to think that India is perceived in so many ways. Watching the "Born into Brothels" documentary, you might think that India is really about the poverty and the desperate situations some people must endure. But then, there's the side of India known for its technological and medical prowess and it's large population of highly educated folks.  60 Minutes featured a great story on India's IIT's. It talks about the educated elite who "settle" for America's Ivy Leagues--Harvard, Yale, MIT-- if they can't get into their own prestigious ITT. 

One last note.... the price of drugs here... unbelieveable. You all need anything? ;) 
We went with Lori (our host) to run some errands. We stopped at a little store to pick up some prescription drugs--drugs that would require a prescription and cost a fortune in the U.S. All those people who have to go to Canada or Mexico to pick up their prescriptions because they can't afford it. They should consider contacting their pals in India. Seriously, here, you pick it up without any prescription for a few cents. Asthma inhalers, acne medicine, whatever. I picked up some Pepto Bismol tablets...10 cents. Compare that to $7 in the U.S.


 
-Suz

Air India1-- by Ryan

1/9/08
I will start off by saying that Air India make Southwest Airlines look like the old British Concord Jet, but even after being cramped in a sardine can for 20 hours that was delayed an additional 3 hours at LAX and another 1.5 hours in Frankfurt, I will leave my bashing short, because I do have to fly back on the same airline (Karma).  As one native on our flight (from Punjab) put it... "that was the worst flight I ever took."

Regardless of our little adventure in the air (that realistically was more assuming that horrific), Suz an I landed in New Delhi safe and sound.  We got a pre-paid taxi, hoped into our vehicle, the driver picking up a friend part way to the trip to drop him off first, and then eventually made it to our destination-- the American Embassy School.

Our hosts for this trip Todd and Lori Anderson from Grass Valley who have been teaching in India for the past 8 years.  

Both are friends of KCRA 3 Photographer Jorge who both Suz and I worked with).  They live on the Embassy School compound, a beautiful apartment, complete with fresh filtered water, maybe the only place you can drink from the tap (everywhere else you risk Delhi Belly).

On our first day, instead resting (we should have), we fought through the jet-lag and ventured into the city... visiting the Red Fort, Rajghat- the Gandhi Memorial, and the Gandhi Museum.  

We weaved our way through the city in a moto-taxi, which is basically a three wheeled rickshaw with a motor.  Traversing through the streets of New Delhi you find out right away, there is no such thing as a traffic lane, as everyone weaves and honks their horn in an organized chaotic ballet (we are talking inches of rubbing and bumping into the next moto-taxi).

After a 3 or 4 hours of exploring, the jet-lag wall began to hit us.  We returned to the embassy, where Todd and Lori fixed us a fantastic Indian meal-- lentils, eggplant, cauliflower curry.  While Suz and I enjoyed the meal, I think the family was more impressed by the See's Chocolate we brought them as a thank you gift... "you can't get chocolate like this in India".  We suggested they may share it with their classroom, they quickly answered, "this (chocolate) is staying right here."

Later today we head to Varanasi on the Ganges...the holiest place in India. 


-Ryan