The last 24 hours in India--by Suz

1/19/08

They say India is a litmus test for travelers.

Boy, is that ever true.

And, this definitely one of those "BM, BK" trips.... "Before Marriage, Before Kids"

I would say that Ryan and I are avid travelers. We've backpacked through Cambodia, Malaysia, VN, Mexico, Peru, and China. We primarily stay at youth hostels, but also at budget hotels and guesthouses. I carry a roll of toilet paper everywhere, use the squat toilets without squeaming. (ok. maybe just a little bit). We've gotten by with a 5-gallon bucket of water instead of a hot shower.

All that, and I will say that India is not an easy country to travel in. At times, we've been surprised at the lack of hustle bustle and the lack of hawkers. And other times, we let them spoil too much of our visit to a site. Many times, it is a grind--especially going through the endless aisles and having to fend off "excuse me, very nice pashmina/scarf" or the so-called "gauntlet" (Ryan's term) of "guide..guide?".

My favorite refrain so far has been: "You know famous actress Goldie Hawn?" I don't know how that's supposed to get the hawkers anywhere since Goldie is long gone. :) Not even a "do you know Angelina Jolie or Madonna or Richard Gere". Sheesh! Oh, other refrains include one in Agra: "you see my face, you see my shirt? you remember. I'm Ricky. You remember me."

I've taken to teaching some of the youngest sales people--just kids really-- to high-five and low-five to  "make them children again" instead of professional hawkers. If they are young children and incredibly persistant, I will then ask them about themselves (to get their minds off of what they're pushing.) Their name, their age, the number of brothers and sisters...anything to break that otherwise nasty tourist/hawker exchange. The other strategy I devised with Ryan.... 1-2-3 break! He goes left, I go right and the hawker is left totally perplexed not knowing who to chase. The last thing I've loved to do is speed walk. After a bit, the hawkers just give up, too tired to keep up.

I must say though, I hate doing any of those things; I hate turning a blind eye or even just totally disregarding that beggar child practically sitting on my lap at the train station. But, that's what we've been force to do--completely ignore them and avoid making eye contact. There are just so many poor children and beggers EVERYWHERE. I've NEVER felt so overwhelmed.

I feel horrible doing it. I feel horrible not even giving them a single cookie from the package I bought at the train station. But once you offer one child a single cookie or cracker, and the others see it, they swarm. Dozens of children. What a terrible way to describe the human phenomenom...but it's the truth.

I feel guilty--very guilty. But I'm not guilty.

The hawkers--young and old-- are merciless. The harrassment can be endless. Overwhelming.
Again, it is the most mentally and physically challenging country I've ever traveled traveled through. Fellow backpackers I met in China years ago told me that traveling through China (even if you don't speak Chinese) "was a cakewalk" in comparison to traveling through India. In many ways, I agree.

The best way we've been able to cope is to come back to a sane environment to decompress after a long excursion. We are so incredibly grateful to Todd and Lori for allowing us to stay with them at the American Embassy School.

Honestly, I thought we were "wimping out" for doing this and not staying in another hostel. But now, I'm incredibly thankful. Considering how Ryan ran a fever of 102.2 last night and had some serious congestion before that and tummy troubles starting off, I think this "home base" has done wonders for him (and for us. Long trips abroad have a way of testing your relationship like no other!) 

While I'd be just as happy continuing with a 5 gallon bucket and sleeping in my street clothes and socks with something on my pillow to protect me from the not-so-clean linens, I AM SO HAPPY to have this opportunity to stay with Todd and Lori! It has really kept us sane and helped us from "burning out" on or India experience.

The trip has been fantastic. Love the people. Love the food. Love the sights.

Varanasi. Taj Mahal. Those were our the two things we came to see in India. To add to that experience, we visited extensively with an Indian slum (aka jugi) thanks to our host's connections at the US embassy. Some unusual memories: Ryan driving the moto-rickshaw and me holding the cobras. Amazing hosts in Delhi and a great visit with our former Sacramento Bee reporter friend who is now at Mint (the Indian Wall Street Journal Partner).

One thing I wish I could change... I wish I could eat MORE Indian food. 

I've been way-careful for obvious reasons. It's been killing me not being able to buy any samosas off the street. It's just that a 5 hour train ride this way and that, a 3 hour plane ride... I haven't wanted  anything to spoil our trip. Delhi Belly has been a lot more intense for many tourists here than Montezuma's Revenge has been everywhere else. All that aside, I know I must have gained 5 pounds already because any time I do get a chance  to eat Indian food, it seems like I'm eating for two. . ;) Well, there is Kathmandu Restaurant on Broadway in Sacramento that's just around the corner. And Indian food in SF........

-Suzanne